It’s been a while since I last wrote about what goes into competing at the USA Paraclimbing Nationals. There has been a lot of changes that represent the growth and increasing professionalism in the sport, with the ultimate goal of Paralympic inclusion. While the overall fun spirit of our nationals has not changed and remains a place for adaptive climbers of all levels to test their skills and grow the paraclimbing community, there’s a lot more going on now!
In the US, it’s pretty easy to get involved with paraclimbing competitions, but there isn’t a lot of info out there about HOW. With more and more adaptive climbers reaching out all of the time, I’ve decided to put together a FAQ about what USA Paraclimbing is all about.
First Step? Read the rule book. A lot of the nitty gritty questions can be answered there, so here’s the link: 2021-2022 Rulebook . I highly recommend doing a Control + F for ‘paraclimbing’ and reading everything that comes up.
Who can compete? Anyone with a qualifying physical disability can compete at USA Paraclimbing competitions. A list of what that is can be found on page 138 of the rulebook. As of 3/3/2022, we are still waiting for an update on classifications from the IFSC, so for now we are following last year’s sport classes: Page 140 . It’s totally fine to have other disabilities that aren’t physical, too, but you must also have a disability that physically effects the way you climb. Starting in 2022, anyone who doesn’t meet the IFSC standard of a minimum physical disability or is unable to be classified into a sport class may enter the ‘Open’ category. This category will not qualify someone for the US Team, but will still allow athletes to compete and join the fun. This category is open to anyone including those who were not able to complete medical documentation requirements prior to the event, who are not able to attend the in-person classification event, or those who either do not have an eligible medical diagnosis or do not meet minimal impairment critera.
But I’m a brand new climber! That’s ok! There still aren’t a huge number of adaptive competitions around the country, so for many athletes our first ever climbing competitions is nationals. GULP! Just keep in mind that is totally normal and have fun and enjoy your first year. Many of our athletes have only climbed a few months before entering. Before you know it, you’ll be a salty old veteran, too! Nationals can be taken seriously by climbers who want to make the US team, but many of our competitors are there primarily to have fun and meet new people.
Do I need to qualify for Nationals? Nope. All you have to do is sign up, show up, and try your best. Hopefully one day we’ll have so many athletes that we’ll be able to roll out a regional series as a qualification event, but for now Para Nationals is an open competition.
What if I’m not a US Citizen? That’s great! We welcome international competitors. For team qualifications, top US citizen placements will be what is considered, in case of a foreign national making podium.
What is USA Climbing? USAC is the governing body over competitive climbing in the US. More officially, “USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, we promote three competition disciplines, bouldering, sport and speed climbing, and is recognized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing, the International Olympic Committee, and the US Olympic Committee.”
What is this going to cost me? In addition to any travel, you’ll need to purchase a USAC Paraclimbing membership ($45) and pay for nationals registration ($100 or up, depending on how early you register). You’ll get a rad t shirt and some swag in your registration kit.
Will I be able to get around? Host gyms are selected based on many criteria, including how accessible they are - both in the facility itself as well as proximity to hotels and major airports. We request that the facilities have appropriate ramps, bathrooms, elevators, anything needed to allow people to move around independently.
What is this about Sport Classes? Paraclimbing competition has sport classes, or categories, that people with similar disabilities compete within. Generally, they are leg amputee, arm amputee, visually impaired, limited range of motion and power, and seated/paralysis. For some of those there are subcategories- these can all be found in the rulebook. There is also a youth category, that is not broken out by disability type (but hey, if we get enough kids in, we will!) For more information on categories, check out that rulebook. Some of these are pretty vague, but basically if you have a disability that effects your physical performance while climbing, it’s likely that you qualify for one of the categories. Paraclimbing follows the International Paralympic rule book, so you can read more about the types of disabilities that qualify here: https://www.paralympic.org/classification
How do I get classified, and what paperwork do I need to bring? All competitors will need to go through classification at least once, and some competitors will need to be classified every year. In the months or weeks before the competition, you will need to have a doctor fill out a form called the Medical Diagnostic Form (MDF) found here. You will need to have this filled out by a doctor to explain how your disability affects you physically, and you may need to bring supporting documents like X Rays or MRI's as explained in the form. In the days leading up to the competition, unclassed competitors will sign up for a half hour slot to meet with trained USAC Classifiers who will confirm or change the sport class the athlete signed up for. The classification appointments are scheduled when you register for the event and take place the days before the event, so keep that in mind when scheduling your travel.
Whoa, sport classes are complicated… We promise, it’ll make sense once you’re in, but don’t be afraid to email paraclimbing@usaclimbing.org with any questions!
How do I register? This has gotten a little more complicated than in years past!
Create an account at usaclimbing.org - the ‘login’ button will take you to Sport80 which is the website USAC uses for registration and membership management.
Purchase a Paraclimbing Membership
Take the SafeSport training (this can take a few hours)
Under ‘events’, add the Paraclimbing Nationals and follow those instructions to register.
What if I want to compete at my home gym but there isn’t an adaptive comp? While it’s intimidating, I encourage everyone to enter regular, abled competitions - even if they don’t have an adaptive category, and even if you come in last place. Any competition experience will help you prepare for nationals.
When is it? Typically at the end of March - the 2022 Nationals are March 25-27 in Birmingham, AL.
Ok, I’m in - what can I expect at my first Nationals? Nationals is a multi day event, combining social gatherings and events in addition to the competition. We usually have slideshows from a pro climber, movies, food trucks, etc.
The competition itself can be hectic for the first timer. Here’s what you can expect for 2022:
All routes are on top rope.
Saturday will be qualifiers and Sunday will be finals.
Saturday will have two waves, classes will be scheduled to compete in either the morning or the afternoon wave. Saturday is redpoint format, which means you can watch others climb, there is no isolation or preview.
While you are allowed to climb on any of the MANY routes, you will only be able to score on three routes that have been designated for your sport class. So, you can warm up or play on a route that won’t count towards your score, but only three assigned to your sport class will count.
You may attempt the route as many times as you want. Attempts will be tracked for tiebreakers, if needed. After your attempt, should you want to try again you will need to get back in line behind other competitors for your next attempt.
SUNDAY FINALS is onsight format. This means if you make finals, you will report to the gym, and be put into isolation - no phones, no outside communication. There will be facilities for bathroom as well as areas to climb and warm up. Right before climbing starts, all competitors are brought out to the climbs and given 5 minutes to preview the route. Then, athletes are returned to ISO to wait their turn to climb. Athletes may discuss the climbs amongst themselves, and VI climbers may review with their callers. No outside communication or coaching is allowed. You get one attempt to get as high as you can on the route.
Once you climb, you remain by the competition area to cheer for everyone who comes after you! The awards ceremony follows shortly. Don’t plan on flying home Sunday night - we can’t guarantee an end time though it’s typically around 5 pm.
AFTERPARTY- they’re legendary. Check the USA Paraclimbing Community Facebook page for themes and more info.
How hard is the climbing? It’s hard to say as the routes aren’t graded other than route 1 is the easiest and route 80 is the hardest. I’d guess that route 1 is 5.4 and route 80 is 5.13.
Carlos M Quiles, climber
I’m serious, and I want to make the US Team: Paraclimbing Nationals is a qualifying event to make the US Climbing Team. Traditionally, top 4 US finishers get invites to the team. Every odd year is the World Championships that we attend as a big group. Otherwise, making the team will allow you to compete at other events internationally (world cups, other national championships) while representing the US. This year, USAC will host a paraclimbing world cup in SLC, there are additional world cups in Europe each summer.
Where can I get more info or ask questions? Check out the USA Paraclimbing Community Facebook page: Link Here
Is there any prize money? …no, but I’ll give a hella high 5 and a hug to anyone who tries their best.
Are you a brand or company interested in supporting Paraclimbing Nationals as a sponsor? Please reach out to learn more - click the ‘Contact’ link at the top of the page!