The new year is always an exciting time, but especially for Paraclimbers - the first day of the year marks almost exactly three months until our National Championships! I ended up taking the fall off from ‘training’ and just had fun trying hard and attempting to make it through unbroken. I asked my coach if he had any tips to share as we dive into the meat of training season. I’ve been working with Emmett for a few years now, and he was the US Paraclimbing Coach for the last two world championships. After berating me for my bad diet and starting my training program late, here’s the advice he has to share:
Coaches aren’t always mean - if you try hard!
“I think the thing I see the best paraclimbers doing consistently is focusing on dedication and trying hard. Being a high performance athlete means you're putting in the work and taking no shortcuts, so the athletes who rise to the top are the ones who take it seriously, no matter what level they start at.
The first thing every athlete needs is to set goals. Training, trying hard, and even competing are almost meaningless without a goal in mind. I generally recommend athletes make a series of goals, ranging from unrealistic, long-term goals to achievable monthly goals. Without something to work for, the rest of the steps won't happen.
Emmett trying to help with my horrendous campusing ‘skills’
The second step for every athlete is to make a plan on how to reach those goals. Some athletes can get by on their own, but I generally see the most progress from athletes who hire a coach as an outside observer to help craft a great, personalized plan. Coaches are useful in that they can be someone holding you accountable and they will generally know the best balance of when to force you to work on your weaknesses and when to let you enjoy climbing while still making progress. No matter what path you choose, having a plan is step two.
Step three is to stick to the plan! This is the hardest step but also the most simple. I know that life can be hectic and it feels like you never have time to yourself if you're spending 10-20 hours per week training, but you have to remember that your goals probably won't happen by just going to the gym once or twice a week and climbing for an hour. The best athletes put in the time and are there to try hard when they step into the gym. Not every session will be fun, but going in with the mentality of trying hard so you can reach your goals will help you stay focused.
That all being said, step four is really really important: Have fun! Taking training too seriously can be exhausting, and only a robot can be 100% serious all the time. Remember that climbing is fun and embrace that every now and then. Have a long rest between sets on the hangboard? Go see if you can do your first unassisted pull-up. Need a break from projecting? Try that silly thing you saw pro climber @allisonvest do on Instagram. I find that these moments are better enjoyed with a like-minded training partner. Having at least one person laughing WITH you in the gym makes every session more enjoyable.
There you have it, four steps to be the best athlete you can be. Now drop and give me 20!”
For more Emmett than you can handle, you can find him at https://emmettcookson.com/coaching/ and on Instgram at @hiimemmett